Routeburn, Greenstone and Caples track
For a short English summary please have a look below.
Pocasi se trosku umoudrilo a tak jsme mohli jeste pred Vanocema vyrazit do hor. Protoze jsme na jednu stranu odkazani na nase auto, snazime se vymyslet tury tak, abychom mohli udelat nejaky okruh a nemuseli se vracet stejnou cestou. Clovek tu jinak velice snadno za par dni prejde nejake pohori, ale dostane se na druhou stranu, odkud neni snadne prejet zpatky k autu.
Vybrali jsme si jeden z dalsich tzv. “Great walks”, to je jeden z nejhezcich treku Zelandu a to byl Routeburn. Ten jsme chteli prejit za dva dny a nazpatek se vratit bud Greenstone nebo Caples trackem. Rozhodnuti jsme nechavali na pozdeji.
Z Queenstownu jsme prejeli do Glenorchy, kde jsme nechali auto a autobus nas prevezl k zacatku Routeburnu a to Routeburn shelteru. Kousek cesty jsme sli s velice milym parem z Bingenu z Nemecka s Uli a Andym, ktere jsme shodou okolnosti taky potkali v Queenstownu.
Chaty na Routeburn tracku byly docela hodne plne a tak jsme prvni den museli urazit velky kus cesty az do chaty Mackenzie (asi 2/3 treku, pres 20km).
Prvni cast cesty byla prijemna stezka, ktera se pomalu zvedala a vedla okolo krasne reky, ktera na nekolika mistech tvorila pekne kaskady a vodopady.
Potom jsme stoupali az k chate Routeburn Falls (Vodopady). Ta se jmenuje podle vodopadu hned za chatou.
Cesta vedla pak dal nahoru okolo vodopadu a reky moc peknym udolim az k jezeru Harris, odkud vytekal a spadal dalsi uzasny vodopad.
Udoli nad chatou falls, jezero Harris a vodopad
Odtud jsme sli dal do Harris sedla (1255m), kde jsme si na chvili odpocinuli, sundali batohy a vyrazili na mensi vyslat na Conical Hill (Kuzelovy vrch), odkud byly nadherne vyhledy na udoli Hollyford, zasnezene hory a dokonce jsme mohli zahlednout v dali nezretelne more. Vratili jsme se zpatky do sedla, kde jsme si vzali batohy a vyrazili dal.
Vyhledy z kopce Conical hill/ Views from Conical hill
Pohled zpet na jezero Harris/ Look back at Harris lake
Pohled na nas na vrcholu Conical hill :-)/ Us at the Conical hill summit
Nahore bylo trosku snehu…/ some snow at the peak
Jeste jednou jezero Harris (fotka je moc pekna, ze nemame srdce vam ji neukazat…)/ One more Harris lake
Cesta, kterou jsme sli nahoru od jezera Harris do sedla/ Track from the lake Harris to the saddle
Cesta z Harris sedla do Mackenzie chaty byla velice malebna, protoze vede nad urovni lesa a okolni hory a udoli Hollyford je jak na dlani. Jak jsme dochazeli k chate Mackenzie, tak se nam otevrel ze hrebene uzasny vyhled na chatu a jezero Mackenzie.
Jezero a chata Mackenzie/ Lake Mackenzie and hut
Byl to dlouhy den a byli jsme radi, kdyz jsme po osme dorazili na chatu.
Druhy den rano se hory uzasne zrcadlily v jezeru./ the other morning we could see mountains mirroring in the lake
Druhy den jsme uz sli vice v busi, ale i tak jsme videli dva krasne vodopady a obcas jsme meli i vyhled na hory a udoli Hollyford.
Les v udoli/ Bush in the valley
Vodopady po ceste na Howden hut/ waterfalls on the way to Howden hut
Dosli jsme k chate Howden, kde jsme si opet udelali prestavku, nasvacili se, odlozili batohy.
Vyrazili jsme na Key summit, coz je vrchol kousek od Milford road a z nehoz jsou krasne vyhledy na hory okolo a take jezero Marian, o kterem jsme psali v prizpevku Milford road.
Sesli jsme zpatky k Howden hutu a sesli z Routeburn tracku a napojili se na Greenstone track. Sli jsme krasnym udolim okolo jezera McKellar az do stejnojmenne chaty. Tam jsme si popovidali se spravcem chaty a ptali se na jeho doporuceni ohledne treku, ktery bychom meli jit - a to bud Caples nebo pokracovat v Greenstonu. Mily hut warden (spravce chaty) nam doporucil “V kazdem pripade Caples”. Tak bylo rozhodnuto :-).
Po ceste jsme prochazeli kolem sadu s kapradinovymi palmami. Tady jsou jejich “miminka”
Tyhle jeste poradne nerozvite listy jsou mistnim symbolem./ We walked through an orchard with fern palms. These are their “babies” ![]()
Druhy den jsme se vratili asi hodinu cesty zpatky okolo McKellar jezera a z Greenstone tracku jsme sesli na Caples.
Hned na zacatku nas cekal prechod zdanlive nevinneho, ale docela hlubokeho, sirokeho a neprijemneho potoku. Prechod jsme zvladli bez toho, aniz bychom se jakkoli namocili :-). Ty trekovy hulky jsou kolikrat velky vyhoda.
Asi dve hodiny jsme se pak skrabali do McKellar sedla. Odtud jsme uz sestupovali udolim Caples az k chate Upper Caples. Tam jsme si udelali prestavku, ale potvory sandflies nas vytlacily z pikniku na trave pred chatou ke stolu v chate.
Pokracovali jsem dal Caples udolim, ktere bylo naprosto uzasne. Vim, ze se porad opakuju, ale ty pohledy na hory, vrcholky a udoli se nam moc libily.
Podle rady spravce z McKellar hutu jsme dosli az k Lower Caples chate. Podle jeho tvrzeni tu melo byt min Sandflies a hlavne krasnejsi vhledy na hory. Much tu bylo hodne, ale ty vhledy byly opravdu uzasny.
Pohled zpet z Lower caples chaty/ View back from the Lower caples hut
Posledni den jsme v klidu vysli udolim Caples a pockali na autobus, ktery nas dovezl k autu do Glenorchy. Tam jsem se opet odmenili, ale tentokrat ne pivem, ale koupili jsme si litr vyborne zmrzliny a nekompromisne ji zbouchali pred obchodem
Jeste jsme si zajeli do Raje :-). Paradise je cast udoli, kde je jen nekolik farem a tisicovky ovci a krav. Proste raj :-)/ We drove to Paradise :-). It is part of a valley with a few farms and thousands of sheep and cows. Just paradise ![]()
Weather got better and we planed another hike. On one hand there is a big plus in having a care here, otherwise we could not get to some places at all, but on the other hand we are on the car dependant and we try to pick some tracks, where we can get back to the car easily (loop tracks). That is why we planed to start with Routeburn track and come back either via Greenstone or Caples track.
We drove from Queesntown down to Glenorchy and took bus to Routeburn shelter. The first part of the track we walked together with a very nice couple - Uli and Andy from Bingen from Germany. It was walking and talking to them :-).
This first part was an easy and very nice walk along a river. Then the track went up and was steadily ascending up to Routeburn Falls hut. There were very nice view but especially great falls just behind the hut.
Then we carried on uphills towards Harris saddle. We could not help and we had to walk down to Harris lake to the point where a stream was falling down from the lake over a bluff and was creating an amazing watterfall.
We walked to the Herris saddle (1255m) and we took the side trip to the Conical hill. There were splendid views on surrounding mountains and Hollyford valley.
From Harris saddle we went above the bush line and could still enjoy the beauty of Hollyford valley. As we came to the Mackenzie hut it was after eight o’clock.
The second day we went to Howden hut and took a side trip to the Key summit. A hill with great views on Hollyford valley, mountains and especially lake Marian, where we have been a few weeks ago and wrote already in our Milford road article.
From Howden hut we carried on trough the Greenstone valley to McKellar hut. We questioned the hut warden about the Caples and Greenstone track and we were recomended to take the Caples one.
The other morning we went back to the Greenstone and Caples junction and climbed up to the McKellar saddle from were we were just descending to Upper Caples hut.
We especially liked the track from Upper Caples hut through the Caples valley to the Lower Caples hut. It is a small hut but with great outlooks just right from the kitchen or your bed :-).
Last day we were walking out from the Caples valley and took bus back to Glenorchy and our car. We have rewarded ourselves not with a beer this time but with a 1l ice cream


